Phil Gruber flashes free ascent of Half Dome in 9.5 hours!

Freeing the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome is still a very uncommon feat, despite its relatively tame rating of 5.12a. On of the reasons for this is that the route is probably harder than that. The consensus grade for the final ZigZag pitch is settling at 5.12b/c, but still a relatively moderate rating for high-end climbers. The route has some devious sections to avoid two bolt ladders and a very difficult 5.12 slab finish.

On June 26, 2004, Phil Gruber flashed the entire route free. I believe this is only about the sixth or seventh free ascent and the first time it has been flashed. Not only that, but Phil climbed the 23-pitch, 2000-foot face in only 9.5 hours, possibly the fastest free ascent as well. Technically, Phil had seen the route before since he had previously climbed it with aid while linking it with the Nose in under 24 hours (this is also a pretty rarified feat). Phil had never seen the Higbee Heedral before, one of the 5.12 cruxes. Phil called the final 5.12 slab the crux for him since he hadn't been climbing slabs at all. In fact, he trained by working 60-hour weeks in the office!

Phil's from Boulder, Colorado and had just zipped out to Yosemite for a few days of climbing. He also owns the speed record on the Naked Edge (with Josh Wharton).