The Bastille

August 28 & 30, 2002

Northwest Corner

The Bastille is perhaps the most famous cliff in Eldorado Springs Canyon. It rises directly above the road. You can literally step from your car to the rock. Or at least you could, if they let you park there. The cliff shoots four hundred feet straight up. The most climbed route on the Bastille is the ultra-classic Bastille Crack. It is five short pitches of mostly 5.7 climbing with a tricky, dangerous more for beginners on the first pitch. The rock also harbors a number of scary run-out routes. One of these is called the Northwest Corner and it is rated 5.11a. I had been dragged up it once before by Dr. Offwidth and now it was Hardly’s turn to do the hauling.

Photo 1: Hardly following the first pitch.

We met after work on a Wednesday and I led the first 5.9 pitch up to the pillar. This pitch is not a give-away and has some exciting climbing, finishing up an unprotectable, but relatively easy, chimney to a two-bolt belay. Hardly took the next, crux pitch and tried his best to avoid the disgusting pigeon shit marking the first twenty feet off the belay. The climbing here is up a wide crack in a corner and is tougher than it looks.

Above Hardly came to grips with the tricky, run-out crux. Hardly climbs, like a friend says, “as if everything is 5.8.” He is just climbing so well right now. He is so strong (regularly onsighting 5.12 sport routes, and redpointing up to 5.12c in just a couple of tries) and so confident. He is also tenacious and very good at deciphering routes. He recently onsighted the entire Naked Edge and Vertigo and the Northwest Corner fell easily to him. He figured out the iron-cross wingspan move and delicately moved his feet over and then moved up, getting further away from gear all the time. He clipped a bolt after fifteen feet and easily dispatched the rest of the tricky pitch.

Photo 2: Hardly at the start of the crux section.

Photo 3: Hardly nearly done with the hardest part and still five feet from clipping his next piece.

Once again, I fell off at the crux move. It is really insecure and balancy and I didn’t get it right. The crux comes after a lot of hard climbing and there is no good rest before launching into this section. I clawed my way to the belay and took over the leading. The next two pitches are 5.9, but they are pretty spicy with some loose flakes, steep rock, and old fixed pins, but we were soon on the summit. On top we saw Michael M. and Adam Stack from the gym. They had just done Blind Faith and were heading for Your Mother (5.12d). I was heading for home.

Photo 4: Me stretching to clip the tricky pin on the final pitch.

X-M

Two days later, on Friday morning, I was back in Eldo with Dave Mackey. Dave it one of those annoying characters that isn’t just good at everything, he’s great at everything. With his national class trail running and 5.12 climbing, I wouldn’t be surprised if he was also a Master chess player. His abilities seem to be boundless.

My goal for today was to lead the second pitch of X-M. X-M is a route that naturally links up with Outer Space. Both routes are 5.10 and both are S rated. Combined they provide four pitches of spicy 5.10 climbing. It was quite cold that morning and I was glad that Dave was leading the first pitch, which is continuous and pumpy 5.10b climbing. Dave climbs so fluidly and naturally, like he runs. It just flows so smoothly for him. He did hesitate to get in the chimney at the top and did some nice, but scary looking face climbing outside of it. This made me a bit nervous and I finally called up, “Get in the damn chimney, Dave!”

My halting, thrutching efforts on the pitch were in stark contrast to Dave’s ascent. When I arrived at the belay, my hands were quite cold, but not numb. I warmed them a bit and re-racked. Leading this pitch used to be a considerable head game and I supposed it still is for some, but if you position your belayer just right, it is probably scarier to follow this pitch. I eschewed the usual RP placements. They aren’t very good and are of little value with a properly placed belayer. I stepped out low, knowing this key beta from two earlier ascents, and cranked the single hard move. This 5.10c pitch is short, at only about fifty feet, but the hard climbing consists of only five feet.

Photo 5: Dave Mackey leading the first pitch variation to X-M. The real first pitch is the horrid and very difficult offwidth to the right.

I was soon at the belay, two-bolts, and Dave was deciphering the move. He stepped out higher and I think this is a harder way to do it and harder it may be, but still no problem for Dave. At the belay I asked Dave if he’d rather lead the next pitch, which combines the 3^rd pitch of X-M with the first pitch of Outer Space, or the final pitch of Outer Space. They are both rated 10c and Dave selected the latter. I was secretly glad because I wanted to give this next pitch another go. I onsighted it the only other time I led it, but following it last year I felt the move was really scary and wanted to see if I could lead it again.

Photo 6: I'm just past the crux of the 2nd pitch. The stopper below me is the key piece to protect the second and the first piece I placed.

I was feeling really strong and confident this day and climbed up to the crux section, clipping three fixed pins along the way. The crux can be protected with a #2 steel RP placed in a tiny crack against a small crystal. This piece is so small and while it seems solid, does not inspire confidence. If the RP pulled the next piece down would be the old pins, considerably below your feet.

I placed the RP, reached high with my right hand for the key, sloping edge, moved up my feet and matched on the hold. The next move is the crux and feels very insecure. You have to make a long reach off this hold to a huge jug. The feet are very marginal here and don’t inspire confidence, but it was over fast and I had the jug. The rest of this pitch isn’t too hard and then it runs into Outer Space. The first pitch of this route is just stellar, classic, Eldo climbing. The holds all slant the wrong way, the footwork is tricky and the pro is fixed pins and small Aliens. It’s great climbing.

Photo 7: Dave Mackey leading the 2nd pitch of Outer Space.

I belayed on the ledge and Dave swarmed up the pitch and grabbed the rack. He had led Outer Space many times and had little trouble with the tricky moves at the start of this pitch. When the rope came tight it was my turn and I continued to climb well, feeling solid on this pitch that frequently gives me trouble. We hiked back down, making plans for more climbs together. I’m on a quest to clean up all the 10c’s in Eldo that have spit me off. It’s a rather long list, but I’ve made considerable headway. Still left on the list are Grandmother’s Challenge, Suberb, and Rosy Crucifixion (this is 10c, despite the 10a rating).