Tigger
June 26th, 1999
This weekend was my anniversary and I spent lots of time with my bride. We saw a movie, dinner, did a 9 mile run, etc. But we also did our first climb in about four years. Sheri wanted a practice day on the rock to gain confidence for our imminent Crestone hiking/climbing trip. We went to Eldorado at 2:30 p.m. on Saturday and did Tigger (5.5). This route was recommended by Homie and legendary funk master Mark Oveson. The truly amazing thing was that I had never climbed this classic on the Wind Ridge! Hiking across the bridge we notice three parties on Calypso (our previous first choice) and two parties on the Wind Ridge, but no one on Tigger.
Gearing up at the base we watched a first time climber try to do the tricky initial moves of Breezy (which shares a start with Wind Ridge). He was wearing a pack and carrying two pairs of shoes. His partner was far above, out of site, and almost out of hearing range. This guy didn't have the confidence to get more than a few feet off the ground and apparently had just met his partner. I bouldered up to show him how to do the first moves, but he wouldn't commit. I wondered why the leader saddled this guy with so much gear. I wondered why his first attempts at climbing would be without anyone to talk him through it and help him. Then I climbed down to the start of the route and forgot about him! :-) He ended up untying from the rope. Good call!
I led the first pitch of Tigger to just below the roof. This pitch shares some climbing with the second pitch of Tagger, in particular the undercling section. I think this section is harder than 5.5. In fact, I felt there were at least three sections of this route that were at least 5.6 and maybe 5.7. Certainly it is a tougher route than Wind Ridge and Calypso. Maybe this was just my being very aware of any hard sections for Sheri.
Sheri followed quite easily and with confidence. I was a bit surprised that she wasn't more nervous with the exposure or the difficult climbing. She hestitated a bit at the traverse start of the route and at the undercling, but not for long. I then led the roof taking my time to try and find a non-strenuous way to do it. I found by stemming that I didn't have to work to hard with my arms, but the stemming was technical. I was a bit concerned about Sheri climbing this. I asked her if I should belay right above the roof. She didn't seem concerned. "You'll keep the rope tight, right?" she asked. I assured her I would and then she said to just continue then. The next section is what I thought was the crux of the route. It involved a tricky crack that would soon lead to a jug. After searching for an easier way to do this section, I liebacked it. Once above this there is a good ledge and good pro so I set up a belay to make sure Sheri got by both of these sections.
Once again, she cranked the moves like she climbed regularly. I was very impressed. Mark Oveson told me about taking a client up this route and he couldn't get over the roof at all. It turned into a mini-epic, but that's another story. Sheri climbed quickly to the belay and I led the last pitch which merges with the Wind Ridge for the final section. It was a great "back to climbing" route. The rock and moves on this route are outstanding! A very good route.