Dream Canyon is a side canyon of Boulder Canyon, just west of Boulder, Colorado.
June 30, 1999
Trashy and I went to Upper Dream Canyon after work yesterday. We flailed around for quite awhile trying to figure out what was what. This place is confusing because you come in from the top and hence can't see any of the cliffs to get your bearings until you hike down. Once we got down a ways, we didn't recognize anything. Eventually, we found our bearings and the only thing in our range was a 5.9 called Weather Report. We both flashed this route and found it fairly easy. Fun climbing though.
We then headed over to the Vanishing Point because it was right next to the cliff we were at (forgot the name of this first one). I then flashed Phantom Bridge (10c) in one very long pitch. This route had 12 bolts on it and some very cool climbing. There is a way cool hand traverse above a roof which led to the crux moves up a dihedral. The crux move was pretty hard, but so short. It definitely was a 5.10 move, but I'm not sure it was 10c. Most of the climbing is probably 5.9. Trashy followed easily and found what looked to be an even easier way to do the crux. We both loved this route.
The weather looked very threatening at this point and I knew rain was imminent. I rappelled all the way down to both of our packs and had Trashy belay me up the lower slabs while I carried both packs. I did this because it was starting to rain and I knew that once Trashy hauled the packs up, he wouldn't be able to get the rope back down to me at the bottom of
the slabs. Then I'd have to solo up to the rope on wet rock.
Once up the slabs, I tied on the packs and Trashy hauled them up. From my higher stance Trashy was able to throw down the rope to me on the second try and I tied in. I then toproped The Vanishing (11c). I would have tried to lead this route, but it was now raining. I climbed through the lower section without troubles and did the 5.10 traverse to the arete. The climbing here is via tiny face holds and a tiny crack that can be used as a lieback hold. The angle isn't vertical and the key was to use your feet on very tiny irregularities. I came off once, but got back on below where I fell and cranked the move. I'll have to go back for the redpoint. This climb is 5.11, but doubtful that it is 11c if I can do it.
Trashy then lowered down and, after breaking off a hold down low and falling, cruised up to the crux. He came off a couple of times here, but when he did the crux move he looked very solid. This isn't a one move wonder as the climbing is quite sustained over about 15 feet.
This is a pretty cool place. We'll definitely be back. Hopefully next time we'll find the crag we originally set out for. Lots of new shiny, big bolts. The bolts are embarrassingly close together on Phantom Bridge. This brings up an interesting point that I recently posted about on rec.climbing. The topic there was 5.7 routes in Yosemite and someone mentioned Hobbit
Book, which is 5.7 but has a monstrous runout on it. I posted that I would recommend only 5.9 leaders and above do the Hobbit Book. That said, I would recommend that 5.9 leaders and above could attempt to lead Phantom Bridge. Very safe!