| Longs Peak Technical Climbs |
| Event | Type | Record Holder | Time | Date | Notes | Full Results |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Long Peak via Diamond | solo | Dean Potter | ~4h | summer '99 | Trailhead to trailhead via the Casual Route (5.10a). | |
| Long Peak via Diamond | team | Dean Potter, Jim Belser |
5h15m | summer '99 | Trailhead to trailhead via the Casual Route (5.10a). | |
| Longs Peak via Diamond in winter | team | Josh Wharton and Jonny Copp | 14h17m | 3/10/97 | Trailhead to trailhead via D7, over the summit and down the North Face. Comments from Josh: "we had a great weather day up there, so it wasn't all that cold. probably in the high 20s low 30s. the north chimney was the probably the crux--filled with lots of nasty snow blobs. due to a technical error-i.e. we forgot 'em--we had only one pair of aiders and daisies. this slowed things up a bit on D7, which was pretty much aid for every move due to the cold and big ice boots. i think our time could definitely be improved because i was still a bit limpy and the lack of aiders made for some slowed jugging." |
reference: personal email |
| D7 in winter | solo | Kennan Harvey | 17h | ? | CTC in this time! There is a rumor about "some guy who lives in Estes Park" doing the Casual Route (5.10a) in winter CTC in ~11 hours. I have not confirmed this and don't know the guy's name. |
|
| Grey Pillar to Casual Route | roped team | Jeff Achey and Leonard Coyne | ? | late 1970's | Trailhead to trailhead. First one-day link-up of lower and upper walls. | |
| Directagonal to Complete Yellow Wall | roped team | Roger Briggs and Kim Carrigan | ~14h | 1980 | Trailhead to trailhead. | |
| Grey Pillar to D7 | roped team | Steve Levin and Bruce Miller | 7h30m | 1993 | base of route to the summit. | |
| Diagonal Super Direct to D1 | roped team | Roger Briggs and Chip Chase | 9h | 1995 | base of route to the summit | |
| Diagonal Super Direct to King of Swords | roped team | Alan Lester and Steve Levin | 11h | 1995 | base of route to the summit | |
| Five Diamond routes in a day! | roped team | Topher Donahue and Tommy Caldwell | ? <24h | summer 2003 | Topher Donahue and Tommy Caldwell climbed five routes in one day on the Diamond, the 900-foot granite wall on Longs Peak, Colorado. Starting at sunrise on Broadway ledge, the two climbed Yellow Wall (5.11a), Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a), D-7 (5.11c), Curving Vine (5.11a) and the Casual Route (5.10a)—about 32 guidebook pitches of 5.9 to 5.11, all above 13,200 feet. By linking pitches and simulclimbing, they cut the pitch count to around 18, but the day still added up to more than 4,000 vertical feet, including the North Chimney approach. The two rapped from Table Ledge to Broadway after each route, never actually tagging the summit of Longs. Donahue said they passed one party three times during the day—a somewhat confusing and demoralizing sight, to be sure. Donahue had never previously climbed more than one Diamond route in a day, and he said that this marathon day doubled the number of routes Caldwell had done on the Diamond. They might have done even more, he added. “We weren’t going for all-out speed,” Donahue said. “We stopped to eat after each climb, and we didn’t do any simul-rappelling or anything like that.” |
reference: Climbing Mag web site |