My First Climb

I started my climbing career in September, 1980 in Eldorado Springs Canyon State Park. I had just started college at CU in Boulder and was intent to become a rock climber. My sister, one year ahead of me at CU, set me up with an experienced climber she knew. I had my own harness, rope, and four carabiners. I bought these just before coming to CU. I was committed. Before ever trying it, I knew it was for me. I had read all the magazine articles I could find and a couple of instruction books, but I as yet had not climbed a single inch.

This friend, whose name unfortunately is lost to me (I'll call him Brian), met me at Sewall Hall and we drove south to Eldorado. We crossed the then rickety, handrail-less bridge and hiked up to the start for the Wind Ridge. I strapped on my harness and tied into the rope without any instruction. I had practiced with my books. Using Brian's figure eight, I belayed him up the first 5.6 pitch. Brian stopped at the first belay ledge only sixty feet up or so and it was my turn. Climbing in my tennis shoes, I embarked on a life altering experience. The position, right next to a sharp arete, was exciting and airy. The moves were challenging and I moved slowly and haltingly, surprising myself by doing the moves I had previously only read about. "Hey, that was a mantle!"

I was beaming at the belay. This was exactly as I had pictured climbing. The weather was perfect: mid-70's, sunny, white fluffy clouds and a deep blue sky. Brian led the second pitch up to the walk-off ledge and I followed again using even more techniques: my first hand jam, lieback, and chimney moves. We walked back down to our packs and then back across the bridge. Brian pointed out the classics from the road. I don't remember most of the routes he mentioned, but one route has forever stuck in my mind: The Naked Edge. Fourteen years later I would final climb this route.

The next day I bought a pair of PA's, my first climbing shoes, and a copy of Jim Erickson's Boulder Heights guidebook. I was hooked.