Desert Towers Climbed

Prompted by some other sites listing desert towers climbed, I made my own list. While not nearly as impressive as those other sites, I share their joy in climbing these surreal structures. The desert is such a special place and I love to climb there, yet my deepest impressions are always the multitude of stars I see while lying in my sleeping bag.

Tower

Route

Date

Partners

Notes

Castleton Tower

Kor-Ingalls
(4 pitches, 5.9+)

3/84

Jim Merritt, Eric Schneider, Bob Johnson

My first desert tower - prompted by reading "50CC"

North Face
(only did 1st pitch)

 4/6/95

English Bob

We did this after Fine Jade and didn't have time to do any more.

Moses

Dunn Route
(6 pitches, 5.11)

5/93

English Bob, Jim ?

 Fun, adventurous alternative to the very popular Primrose. Crux is a fist crack.

Primrose Dihedrals
(6 pitches, 5.10+ A1)

3/20/99

The Trashman, Hardly Manson

 The classic route of the desert! Lots of hard cracks.

Titan

Finger of Fate
(9 pitches, 5.8/A2)

5/94

The Trashman

Very scary. My first (and only) experience with pounding pins. The tallest Fisher Tower and a 50CC.

Independence Monument

Otto's Route
(5 pitches, 5.9)

 9/9/95

Little Davey Burris

Little Davey's second route! The best moderate tower route.

Sundial Dihedral
(6 pitches, 5.11 A1)

 2/96

English Bob

Great, sunny route that is comparable to Primrose Dihedrals on Moses Spire.

Independence Chimney
(4 pitches, 5.8 A1)

 10/96

The Loobster

Only twenty feet of aid. The rest of great, moderate climbing

Sentinel Spire

Fast Draw
(2 pitches, 5.10+)

 10/96

The Loobster

 Great crack climbing with a rappel approach.

Bell Tower

Long Dong Wall
(5 pitches, 5.11a)

 3/98

The Trashman, Hardly Manson, Hey Jude

 Great adventure route that summits in the middle of the summit platform.

Grandview Spire

Southwest Defile Route
(3 pitches, 5.8/C2)

 3/98

The Trashman

 Fun aid route with rappel approach.

The Rectory

Fine Jade
(6 pitches, 5.11a)

 4/6/95

English Bob, The Trashman, Dr. OW

 Great route with very hard finger crack crux and difficult wide section on first pitch.

Empirical Route
(5.10+)

 

English Bob, Paul, Kathy

This route is rated 5.9, but it is much harder and the last pitch is runout and loose. We hauled and slept on top!

Owl Rock

Regular Route
(1 pitch, 5.8)

 9/16/95

solo

Roped solo.

Sister Superior

Jah Man
(5 pitches, 5.10+)

 4/23/95

The Trashman

 Incredible route! Sister Squeeze is just one of many incredible pitches.

North Six Shooter Lightning Bolt Cracks
(3 pitches, 5.11b)
 4/7/95 English Bob Brutal, hard climbing, but very classic.I just led the second pitch.

4/01

Hardly and Judy Manson (aka Karpeichik)

I led the second and third pitches

 

Ancient Art

Regular Route
(5 pitches, 5.9+/A0)

 4/22/95

The Trashman

 Unbelievable corkscrew summit!

King Fisher

Colorado NE Ridge
(6 pitches, 5.9/A2)

10/14/95

The Trashman, Android

 The second tallest Fisher Tower

Lizard Rock

Entry Fee Route
(1 pitch, 5.8+ S)

 10/15/95

The Trashman, Android

 The smallest Fisher Tower. Serious lead.

Leapin' Lizards
(1 pitch, 5.10b S)

 10/15/95

Android

 Serious lead.

Lighthouse Tower

Northeast Face
(5 pitches, 5.9+ S)

 10/98

John Prater, The Trashman, Ken Leiden

By mistake we did the wrong route and ended up making the first free ascent. It even got in the American Alpine Journal!

The Mace

Standard Route
(5 pitches, 5.9+)

10/3/92

The Taylor Boys

This is a rare desert tower for me in that it is not on the Colorado Plateau - this is near Sedona, Arizona.

3/00?

Opie

Part of a four tower link-up

11/01

The Taylor Boys

A pretty fast ascent after we got by a horrendously slow party. I led pitches two and three.

Zoroaster Temple

Regular Route
(5 pitches, 5.9+)

 

Opie Taylor

Awesome temple in the Grand Canyon

Washer Woman

In Search of Suds
(6-7 pitches, 5.10+)

11/12/99

Hardly Manson

Beautiful tower on the White Rim trail in Canyonlands Nat. Park. - Great belay ledges.

Monster Tower

North Ridge
(6 pitches, 5.11+)

11/13/99

Hardly Manson

Beautiful tower on the White Rim trail in Canyonlands Nat. Park. Much harder than Washer Woman.

Dark Angel

West Face
(2 pitches, 5.11)

11/14/99

Hardly Manson

Fun, sandy tower in Arches National Park. Great approach hike.

Three Penguins

Right Chimney
(2 pitches, 5.10c)

3/5/00

The Trashman, Hardly Manson, Judy, BTO, Sally Moser

Outstanding crack climbing and maybe the best free climb in the Arches. Thin hands, perfect hands, fists, and offwidth.

Oak Creek Spire North Face 3/01 Opie Part of a four-tower day.
Summit Block Rock Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride 3/01 Opie Part of a four-tower day.
Streaker Spire   3/01 Opie Part of a four-tower day.
Mexican Hat Regular Route   Trashman, Steve Mathias, Homie, Warren Teissier Set the "fastest known time" on this route.
Shiprock Classic Route 11/13/02 Trashman, Homie, Warren Teissier, Steve Mathias Okay, probably not strictly a desert tower. More like a desert mountain! Not sandstone either. A great adventure though.
Coyote Tower Regular Route 11/23/02 Opie, Toolman A very cool Sedona, AZ tower.

 

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