Desert Towers
Climbed
Prompted by some other sites listing desert towers climbed, I made my own list. While not nearly as impressive as those other sites, I share their joy in climbing these surreal structures. The desert is such a special place and I love to climb there, yet my deepest impressions are always the multitude of stars I see while lying in my sleeping bag.
Tower |
Route |
Date |
Partners |
Notes |
Castleton Tower |
Kor-Ingalls
|
3/84 |
Jim Merritt, Eric Schneider, Bob Johnson |
My first desert tower - prompted by reading "50CC" |
North Face |
4/6/95 |
We did this after Fine Jade and didn't have time to do any more. |
||
Moses |
Dunn
Route |
5/93 |
English Bob, Jim ? |
Fun, adventurous alternative to the very popular Primrose. Crux is a fist crack. |
Primrose
Dihedrals |
3/20/99 |
The classic route of the desert! Lots of hard cracks. |
||
Titan |
Finger of Fate |
5/94 |
Very scary. My first (and only) experience with pounding pins. The tallest Fisher Tower and a 50CC. |
|
Independence Monument |
Otto's Route |
9/9/95 |
Little Davey Burris |
Little Davey's second route! The best moderate tower route. |
Sundial Dihedral |
2/96 |
Great, sunny route that is comparable to Primrose Dihedrals on Moses Spire. |
||
Independence
Chimney |
10/96 |
Only twenty feet of aid. The rest of great, moderate climbing |
||
Sentinel Spire |
Fast Draw |
10/96 |
Great crack climbing with a rappel approach. |
|
Bell Tower |
Long Dong Wall |
3/98 |
Great adventure route that summits in the middle of the summit platform. |
|
Grandview Spire |
Southwest
Defile Route |
3/98 |
Fun aid route with rappel approach. |
|
The Rectory |
Fine Jade |
4/6/95 |
Great route with very hard finger crack crux and difficult wide section on first pitch. |
|
Empirical Route |
|
English Bob, Paul, Kathy |
This route is rated 5.9, but it is much harder and the last pitch is runout and loose. We hauled and slept on top! |
|
Owl Rock |
Regular Route |
9/16/95 |
solo |
Roped solo. |
Sister Superior |
Jah Man |
4/23/95 |
Incredible route! Sister Squeeze is just one of many incredible pitches. |
|
North Six Shooter | Lightning
Bolt Cracks (3 pitches, 5.11b) |
4/7/95 | English Bob | Brutal, hard climbing, but very classic.I just led the second pitch. |
4/01 |
Hardly and Judy Manson (aka Karpeichik) |
I led the second and third pitches |
|
|
Ancient Art |
Regular Route |
4/22/95 |
Unbelievable corkscrew summit! |
|
King Fisher |
Colorado NE
Ridge |
10/14/95 |
The second tallest Fisher Tower |
|
Lizard Rock |
Entry Fee Route |
10/15/95 |
The smallest Fisher Tower. Serious lead. |
|
Leapin' Lizards |
10/15/95 |
Serious lead. |
||
Lighthouse Tower |
Northeast
Face |
10/98 |
By mistake we did the wrong route and ended up making the first free ascent. It even got in the American Alpine Journal! |
|
The Mace |
Standard Route |
10/3/92 |
The Taylor Boys |
This is a rare desert tower for me in that it is not on the Colorado Plateau - this is near Sedona, Arizona. |
3/00? |
Opie |
|||
11/01 |
The Taylor Boys |
A pretty fast ascent after we got by a horrendously slow party. I led pitches two and three. |
||
Zoroaster Temple |
Regular Route |
|
Opie Taylor |
Awesome temple in the Grand Canyon |
In Search of Suds |
11/12/99 |
Hardly Manson |
Beautiful tower on the White Rim trail in Canyonlands Nat. Park. - Great belay ledges. |
|
North Ridge |
11/13/99 |
Hardly Manson |
Beautiful tower on the White Rim trail in Canyonlands Nat. Park. Much harder than Washer Woman. |
|
West Face |
11/14/99 |
Hardly Manson |
Fun, sandy tower in Arches National Park. Great approach hike. |
|
Three Penguins |
Right
Chimney |
3/5/00 |
The Trashman, Hardly Manson, Judy, BTO, Sally Moser |
Outstanding
crack climbing and maybe the best free climb in the Arches. Thin hands,
perfect hands, fists, and offwidth. |
Oak Creek Spire | North Face | 3/01 | Opie | Part of a four-tower day. |
Summit Block Rock | Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride | 3/01 | Opie | Part of a four-tower day. |
Streaker Spire | 3/01 | Opie | Part of a four-tower day. | |
Mexican Hat | Regular Route | Trashman, Steve Mathias, Homie, Warren Teissier | Set the "fastest known time" on this route. | |
Shiprock | Classic Route | 11/13/02 | Trashman, Homie, Warren Teissier, Steve Mathias | Okay, probably not strictly a desert tower. More like a desert mountain! Not sandstone either. A great adventure though. |
Coyote Tower | Regular Route | 11/23/02 | Opie, Toolman | A very cool Sedona, AZ tower. |